We Say Potato – The New York Times


Good morning. I learned a neat trick from the chef Ned Baldwin’s excellent new cookbook, “How to Dress an Egg,” which he wrote with Peter Kaminsky. It’s for making a butter-basted hanger steak that is not only delicious but a perfect indoor steak preparation. There’s no searing involved, no smoke, no mess.

It’s basically a no-recipe recipe, and you don’t need to do it with hanger steak if hanger you do not have: You just cook the meat gently on the stovetop in an oil-filmed pan for a minute or two on each side (graying it, basically), then transfer it to a 400-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cut. When it’s coming up on rare — that’s 120 degrees if you’re using a meat thermometer — pull the steak from the pan, and let it rest on a rack for 10 minutes. It’ll keep cooking in its residual heat.

Put the empty pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat and cut a few tablespoons of unsalted butter into it, maybe an unpeeled smashed garlic clove, maybe a sprig of thyme. When the butter foams, swirl it around until it turns a glorious nutty brown. Add the steak, and either spoon butter over it as if you were a fancy television chef or use your tongs to flip the steak over and over again in the fat as if you were a working cook. Do that for a minute and a half, then remove the steak, slice it on the bias and serve with roasted potatoes. Pretty neat. Next up, Ned’s pork-shoulder pot roast with clams. I like just typing those words.



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